COLD PROCESS RECIPE – SHAVING BAR

A warning—once you try a real soap to shave with, you’ll never use commercial shaving cream again.

This homemade cold process natural shave soap recipe features castor oil and rich butters to make a bubbly, creamy, moisturizing bar!

You can tailor this recipe to suit your own oil preferences. It is not a whole lot different than a regular cold process soap recipe, although it has been adjusted to give the qualities needed for a shaving soap.

 

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Ingredients
Equipment needed
Method
  • 65g Shea butter
  • 100g Castor Oil
  • 34g Cocoa Butter
  • 130g Coconut Oil
  • 130g Palm oil
  • 241g Olive Oil
  • 195g Water
  • 95g Caustic Soda
  • 21g Fragrance oil
  • 1 Tablespoon Kaolin Clay

You will need the following equipment.

  • Mixing bowl/Jug (2liter at least)
  • Stick Blender
  • Spatula
  • Separate heat safe container for mixing sodium hydroxide.
  • Soap mould (this soap will fit the purple silicone wooden box mould perfectly)
  • Infrared thermometer

Preparation:

*Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.

  • Prepare your lye solution by measuring 195g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container. 
  • In a separate container measure out 95g of sodium hydroxide. 
  • Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved. Allow to cool to room temp.
  • Melt oils and butter together and let cool to room temp (no hotter than 30 degrees Celsius)

Instructions:

  • NOTE: You should wait until your oils and lye solution reach around 32 degrees Celsius.  Your lye and oils do not have to be the exact same temperature but should be close and no hotter than 33 degrees Celsius as hotter temperatures can accelerate trace and cause your batter to heat up too quickly or even overheat.
  • Add the kaolin clay to the oils and stickblend until all the clumps are out. Remember to gently shake it around to release any trapped air underneath it, if not done, it will cause air pockets in your soap. 
  • Add the lye solution to the oils and stickblend to a light trace.
  • At this point you will want to add any colourant or fragrance if you prefer.  Blend these in by hand.
  • Pour into a mould as quickly as possible.  Note: This recipe gets thick quite fast, so you don’t want to waste time. Get it into the mould as quickly as possible.
  • Tap your mould on the ground a few times to release any trapped air.
  • You can texture the top using a spoon or swirl with a skewer. 
  • You can spray the top with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to prevent soda ash and leave uncovered.  Or you can insulate with cardboard boxes and towels or blankets to force gel phase.
  • Wait 18-24 hours to un mould your soap, cut into bars and let cure for 4-6 weeks before selling, using, or giving as gifts.
  • Note: Always be cautious when working with melted bases.  Keep out of reach of children & pets.  Own testing/recipes is required.